Apply: Yarns, presser feet, corners and curves

Here are my experiences with applying:

Depending on the material and the material that is to be applied, sometimes not use the usual upper thread, but maybe try a significantly thinner yarn, z. B. the embroidery thread Rayon of the company Madeira. It nestles better due to the lower thickness of the edges and forms a more delicate satin stitch (= zigzag stitch), which does not apply so strong, so the actual subject does not push so much into the background.

Madeira embroidery threads are available in glossy or matt, powdery shades, so that you can tailor the yarn to the application material and the environment.


In the event that embroidery thread is used as the upper thread

  1. Absolutely one Stickvlies to stabilize it, if the outer fabric has not already been back ironed with Vlieseline.
  2. A embroidery needle (recognizable by the red piston), which is tuned to the strength of embroidery threads or
  3. dispense with these and use a corresponding to the material to be applied sewing machine needle. In the current project, I cut and applied letters made of cork / cork leather. Because cork does not like holes, I have one MICROTEX needle Strength 80 used, the tip of which is optimally shaped for such materials.
  4. Since embroidery thread has a very smooth surface and often runs off the roll too easily, maybe one network (as for the cones of the overlock yarns) put over the spool of thread, so that the thread has a little resistance and can not get tangled.
  5. Regardless of the choice of upper thread in each case one Test sewing make: how wide should the satin stitch be? how big is the stitch length?
  6. If the final application is not in a? Session? can be done, then the settings at the sewing machine Write down after trying so that they are always retrievable and identical in all parts to be applied - also saves you the trouble of a new sample embroidery and saves yarn and time.
  7. Wash the outer fabric / carrier before applying, iron and then cut (!): If you apply with a polyester yarn (which does not enter) and thus works on a cotton fabric as a carrier material, it can shrink the first time the cotton to a shrinkage, and as a result, at the edge of the application may lead to slight distortions that can not be eradicated even by so much ironing again :-(
  8. Unlike most seams sew I apply at the beginning and end of a seam No way, because you would see this from the right side. Instead I proceed as in the ready-made dressmaking: At the beginning of the application seam, let the top and bobbin threads each hang 20 cm long, do not sew back stitches, but immediately start with the statin stitch. At the end of the application also do not secure the seam, but also just stop sewing and carefully pull out the embroidery under the presser foot until the top and bottom threads are also about 20 mm long. then cut off the threads first.
  9. For sewing, pull the two upper threads (beginning and end) with a sewing needle onto the fabric underside and double a bobbin thread there with a bobbin thread knot and cut off the rest. So the seam is always secured and on the top without the backstitching immaculate!

Therefore: If present, switch off the automatic thread trimming at the sewing end!

Who has, an open Embroidery foot or Appliqué Use, which gives better view of the edge to be applied. Excellent is an embroidery foot, which has a mark in its center, which can be guided along the contour of the substance to be applied: Then you can (you do not!) Put the satin stitch alternately in the fabric and in the upper and has from the Fabric edge seen from the inside (in the direction of application) and outwards (towards the upper outer material) always the same distance.

Another note about applying winding shaped parts

At a outside curve (Curve curved away from the application center), before turning all the work on the needle left Position of a zigzag stitch in the fabric (ie inside = in the appliqué), then raise the presser foot, turn the fabric a little bit, lower the presser foot and continue sewing. Do this at regular intervals. At a curve, after Inside is shaped (for example, in the holes in the letter B, if you work counterclockwise), proceed exactly opposite: interrupt the satin stitch when the needle right Hand = outside = in the upper, then lift the presser foot, turn work, lower presser foot and then continue sewing.

In my current case, the letters to be applied were so narrow (3-4 mm) that I could not - as often stated - surround them with a dense zigzag stitch, because then nothing more of the cork fabric would have been visible. So I worked with a narrow zigzag stitch (stitch width 1.5) with a stitch length of a little less than 2 and used the shiny embroidery thread for the noble cork. Thus, the actual application stitch comes into its own, but has not "killed" the application material.


Summarized

  • Outside curve - needle remains inside for turning inside = stuck in the application.
  • Inside curve - needle remains in the outer material / carrier material for the purpose of turning outside.

So it can not happen that a zigzag stitch is sometimes accidentally sewn entirely outside the fabric to be applied :-(

One more hint: It's great if you have one Needle stop function can be inserted so that the needle automatically gets stuck in the fabric at a sewing interruption: So the fabric can not slip away and you have both hands for turning available.

CORNERS can get ugly when you're on the way? Sew to the corner, then turn 90 degrees and continue sewing. Here, the corner area would be provided twice with a zigzag stitch, which applies thick. That's why I sewed to the corner, the needle Left stuck in the application, then the work rotated by only 45 degrees, half a stitch diagonally (= outwards) set, the work again rotated by 45 degrees in the new direction and applied further. So the view is not directed to a thick corner, but to the applied motif and the big picture :-)

Have fun imitating and asking!

Mitre Corners with a Bias Binding Foot:: by Babs at MyFieryPhoenix | March 2024