Lace knitting: stitching and other tips

Lace knitting is not just conventional lace knitting, but is done with yarns of at least 330 m / 50 g. The needle sizes are still and just thicker, as suspected in such thin yarns, so that the final product can look filigree.

Each finished textile in lace knitting is washed before use, then stretched to a designated width (width - height or length) and then dried for many hours, while lying on a stable base as possible. Only then the pattern comes into its own in full beauty - before pull the mesh as with any other knit a little bit together. This makes it so difficult to check the perfect knitting pattern during lace knitting and to avoid possible ribbing (and then even with mohair yarns).

Tip 1

In the following, I would particularly recommend the making and the subsequent washing and tensioning of a mesh sample. As for the yarn used (in lace knitting there are usually very noble yarns) on the band (please keep it!) It is suggested how many stitches in width and rows in height are striven for, I pull through my finished stitch sample even before washing horizontally and vertically contrasting threads. In this way, I mark the number of stitches and the number of rows, which according to the banderole for this yarn should correspond to a square of 10 x 10 cm. In the subsequent tightening, I try this square? so wide that it takes the dimensions of 10 x 10 cm (You can already feel if the knit ever so far ...).


I pin this square in the middle of the stitching, not on the edge of it, because many of us often knit the first rows and also the beginning and end stitches of a row with a different tension. This 10x10 cm square, I then stuck at its edges with tensioning pins, so that nothing can slip. Subsequently, I extend the surrounding stitches to approximately the same extent and then only then tension the complete stitch sample on its outer edge - that is, from the inside to the outside. Then it's time to wait and let it dry. Even after the seemingly complete drying, I leave the knitted fabric - freed from tension needles - lying still for 1-2 days.

If I like the knit by eye-catching, I keep the needle size. In the other case I make another stitch test ...

Some will say that this is too much effort, but these are only suggestions from experience - coupled with personal claims. And they are very different ...


Tip 2:

For the sake of impor- tance: always make the mesh sample always much larger than 10 x 10 cm and measure in the middle.

Tip 3:

Since laceratic work is always tense, it is essential to knit the sling and edge stitches much looser than usual.

Tip 4:

So that you do not despair when strapping and do not know in which row you are then and whether you have not overlooked an envelope ..., every 10 - 20 rows pull a so-called rescue thread through all the stitches. I use this much thinner yarn, a thick darning needle and I always take a back row, because here the? Nasty? Envelopes for the holes have always been knitted and you only have knitted stitches on the needle.


Tip 5:

As a further aid, I use a row counter (more on that below) and put stitch markers between the individual rapports. With triangular cloths I also mark the middle or other shape change points of the knitted fabric. In order to do this, I try to find so-called anchor points, which are relevant for the whole and can serve the rough orientation.

This leads over to mine

Tip 6:

To analyze the knitting before the stitch? to attempt:

  • What is special in the arrangement of the envelopes (later holes) - I paint the holes in color and can thus the "finished"? Better imagine patterns.
  • Where are decreases - where increases are planned?
  • In which series for the first time repeats occur - these I mark in the knitting font by vertical lines.
  • If the knitting font has a completely new pattern, I choose a different color for the holes and set, if necessary, for other repeats new vertical differently colored strokes: This gives me a small overview.
  • I pinch my paper knitting under a wide rubber band, which is very tightly wrapped around a sturdy cardboard box and can not slip: the finished knitted rows all point down, the row to knit right now is the top = visible directly below the lower edge of the rubber band : So I have the whole knitting appearance in mind and know how my current series fits into the knitting font.
  • The row counter I have with a safety pin pretty far right attached to the rubber band, so I at the beginning of a new row (that's right) always synonymous first the row counter? - Phew - please, I hope I do not even forget that ...
  • On this stable pad, I also note in which row I have pulled through the rescue thread: After the scuffle, then you know exactly from where it then unfortunately starts again ...

Tip 7:

Watch every few rows with a critical view of the entire sample image:

  • all reports look identical, d. H. do they have the same number of stitches?
  • are holes as given directly above each other or - if so given - per row offset by 1 stitch or, or, or?
  • braids are plaited in the given direction (left - right),
  • are not meshes / threads splintered ?, d. H. the thread would be bitten, because then the thread could break under light load (TRAIN!) and you would have an unwanted "hole salad".
  • are all envelopes available that make up the highlight of a lace knit.
  • the decreases are made in the prescribed direction (tilting to the right / left or centering them).

Tip 8:

Beginners of lace knitting I would guess for the first project to a scarf / cloth with absolutely straight edges, because as soon as the cloth is to receive a non-rectangular shape, you have to work with increases and decreases that are difficult to correct, ie backwards are knitting and their omission (accidentally) the pattern is completely wrong and so many then the pleasure passes - that would be a pity!

That leads me to my next

Tip 9:

Before eagerly starting a project, be sure to read the instructions from the first to the last letter, checking that you understand all the instructions. I am thinking not only of the particularity of each trick behind the symbols, but of painful experience, for example. B. also because of how to chase off, so that exactly this edge, for example, then invisible (!) Can knit together with another edge ... Since I just remember the

Tip 10

Try out different edge stitches in one stitch test - their execution also depends on the respective processed pattern and z. B. of the fact, whether the fabric curls up after completion at the longitudinal edges or whether a border is then to be knitted ...

Tip 11:

Keep the banderole: Anyone who is not sure whether he gets along with the recommended number of grams of yarn due to his knitting (loose - firm), should possibly buy a ball more, otherwise it may be that the color lot number no longer with that matches the original. But if that can not be avoided, here's the next one

Tip 12:

When changing balls, knit a row with the new color lot number, then a row again with the yarn of the old color lot number - repeat this if necessary. Only then continue to knit exclusively with the yarn of the new color lot number - so the transition for the eye is a little blurred and hardly noticeable.

Tip 13:

Do you prefer to grow the length of the knitting needle / rope? instead of choosing a long rope from the outset, because that could twist and just annoy ...

Tip 14:

Personally, I sew the threads of the knit fabric before washing and stretching, because otherwise the knitwear at these points could unnecessarily widen. In addition, the sewn suture ends in the water behave in the same way as all other sutures anyway.

Maybe he has succeeded, reluctant among you, but to have overcome some obstacles on the way to lace knitting!

5 Tips & Tricks for Knitting LACE | Stitch Markers, Lifelines, Needles, Pattern Management, Blocking | March 2024