Webbing, oilcloth, truck tarpaulin and Co. process
Since I just try different materials for bags - even those mentioned above - kept popping up the question: Which sewing machine needle is the best for this?
I have tried so many times and came to the following result:
- When needle One should use a so-called titanium needle (thickness 90) or a denim needle (strength 100). A titanium needle has a slight ball tip and is also used for embroidery. It is harder and more resistant than normal sewing machine needles. The coating particularly protects the groove and the tip of the needle and makes it a total of five times shatterproof.
- The needles In case of doubt it should fit more / better to the yarn thickness than to the fabric consistency, because the thread must be able to slide easily through the long groove on the back of the sewing machine needle, so that it can be pulled easily and the stitch pattern becomes clean.
- If you have one Teflon foot or a so-called roller foot, the machine can transport truck tarpaulin and oilcloth outstanding. If none is available, stick a little Tesafilm under the presser foot and you have a good replacement. You can also put a silk or baking paper strip halfway under the presser foot, ie on the fabric. When sewing you still have a good view of the fabric and can torn away the tissue paper ... later.
- For webbing, the normal standard zigzag foot is sufficient.
- When stitch length has proven to be the best with 3-4, because the fabrics are definitely thicker than e.g. light cotton fabrics.
- Try out the visible (!) Stitching beforehand on a fabric remnant and let the stitch stand out visually with a rather large stitch length and thicker yarn (maybe look up at bags to buy and take a picture!). If you want to re-stitch visible closeness, SCHMETZ has a so-called Nachstick needle in the program (bulb color light green). This has a longer and wider eye.
Only after a long trial and error did I realize that oilcloth and truck tarpaulin work well with a reduced (!) thread tension sew on: Choose 2-3 here. First, I tried to increase the thread tension due to the thickness of the fabrics. This proved not to be so successful, because then you would also have to increase the lower thread tension at the same time, so that the upper and lower thread are devoured exactly in the middle of the fabric. To turn millimeter by the screw of the bobbin case to adjust the upper thread tension, rarely succeeds. My retailer advised me not to do this on my own ... That's why I decided to reduce the tension on the upper thread only (after setting the stitching to 4 again!). That's it!
Another indication of a great Videoin which super explains how to thread correctly, wind up a yarn and especially the thread tension (!) and can change? just great for any kind of sewing machine? whether Singer, Brother, Bernina or ....
//www.google.de/?gws_rd=ssl#q=FAdensapnnung+
When yarn When using such materials always use only polyester yarn - a cotton thread will tear.
Now for stapling / plugging:
Coated fabrics of all kinds take punctures of pins very bad! Therefore, consider whether the purchase of so-called "Wonder Clips" is worthwhile. These are clip-like staples, but give a much stronger grip and are ideal for connecting delicate fabrics or very thick layers of fabric for subsequent sewing. Jersey z. For example, I only cling to the "Wonder clips". I have only started with the purchase of 10 pieces :-( You should like to buy more immediately.Unlike with pins, it can not happen that you hit the machine needle on a pin and it breaks (by the way then not on an over - or Coverlock) ... By the way, when googling times note: Wonder clips are available in different sizes.
If you already have the so-called foldback parentheses, you can also use these for short-term linking.
For a long time there is also a narrow double-sided adhesive tape (in the style of the carpet double-sided adhesive tape) with the name? Stylefix ?. With it you can connect all fabrics together. It is wafer-thin and remains permanently inconspicuous and non-abrasive between the fabric layers. The needle slides well through the material, leaving no glue residue on the needle. Stylefix is suitable for washing machines and dryers!
Turning around the sewn parts can be a big problem if they are very stiff. Then especially the corners with a hair dryer warm up (partner work)? this makes the material supple and malleable for a brief moment.
Hard, coated materials like rolled and lying store, maybe over two empty household roles. Sometimes you get a long, narrow plastic bag to carry wide rolls of gift paper.In this I keep all long, narrow sewing utensils and hang the bag on a hook rather invisible in a corner.
